Monday, June 10, 2019

Lasithi plateau to Males on the E4: Day 83

A big climb out of the Lasithi plateau among high, stony mountains then a big climb down the other side.
The first part of the climb was fairly easy following dirt tracks, with a few sections of a rough path, some of which I missed as the dirt track was easy to walk on even if it was longer as it looped around to reduce the gradient. A number of pick ups passed me, which surprised me until I came over the brow of a hill and saw the Limnakaro plateau, dotted with trees, higher and much smaller than the Lasithi plateau, with a number of farm buildings and the inevitable church.
Leaving the plateau the route was more difficult. A path across stony ground that climbed up a valley, the bare, grey, limestone mountains rising high above. However as I climbed higher I benefited from some beautiful views. The day had started misty with clouds covering the hills, but I had climbed so high that I could look over the clouds, just as you can in an aeroplane but without the distortion of the windows. In the distance the Psiloritis mountains poked above the clouds, I watched them appear and disappear as I ate some biscuits. Crossing the pass I had my first view of the mountains to come in the next few days (a little disappointed as I was hoping for some gentler walking). Sheep were grazing on the high ground but it seemed to me there was very little for them to eat apart from some thorny bushes. Much of the island seemed over grazed to me, but then I know nothing of these things.
The first part of the route down was painful, picking my way through the rocks, trying to avoid slipping on loose stone while also looking out for the waymarks (mainly yellow today) and E4 signs. My ankles were complaining. It was therefore a relief to find a dirt track, and a more moderate path in a small pine forest, a change from the thorny oaks that are more common.
Reaching the collection of houses that constitute Selakano, I stopped at the church to pay my respects, then continued on my way, passing three hikers going the other way, the first I had seen today. A sign on leaving the village had a map of the E4 trails in the Lasithi prefecture. They have been revising and resigning the route, so that the new signs no longer take you to the village of Males. While this makes sense as it cuts out a "dogleg" in the route, I already had a booking at the Villa Mala, so continued down the old route down the valley to the village, with views of the blue Libyan sea in the distance.
My apartment in the Villa Mala has a four poster bed and candles and smooth white pebbles in the bathroom. Very romantic but my wife is far away...
Some spicy meatballs for tea...

25.1 kilometres walked today with a total ascent of 1100 metres.

View over clouds to Psiloritis mountains that I crossed a few days ago

At the pass

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