Krikello to Ambliani on the E4: Day 42

A day of slow progress as I made my way along indistinct paths through trees, up and down hills, and wading across two rivers.
I had a good breakfast at the Taverna (possibly called the Fagotopi tou Mousoulia, next to the gift shop in the square), which included home made jam, toast, fresh fruit and a red coloured boiled egg (coloured because it is Easter). Then it was downhill out of Krikello.  Waymarking here and for most of the day was very good, a combination of metal squares nailed to trees with the yellow and black E4 diamond on them, many of which looked like they had been installed in the last few years, and older yellow and black stripes painted on trees or rocks. It was a bit of a game trying to spot the next waymark. They were sufficiently numerous for me to rely on them rather than on my GPS which was fortunate as the path deviated in detail (although not general trend) from my GPS track. In many places the E4 took a route which was not the path you expected, possibly because many paths were made by sheep or goats who were evidently not walking the E4.
Coming out of the village and into the woods I reached my first obstacle. A river swollen by snow melting on the mountains. I took off my socks and rolled up my trousers and waded through in my boots, my trekking pole helping my balance on the boulders in the river. Safely on the other side I was surprised at how much water was released by the padding in my boots, either by squeezing them or allowing water to drain and collect in the heel. I ate half a bar of chocolate while I was waiting, it had melted yesterday and resolidified over night in a highly distorted shape.
Most of the day was spent on paths through trees, mainly going steeply up or downhill. Progress was slow, what with finding the path, avoiding rocks and dealing with fallen trees. Nevertheless the path was better than some earlier ones as it looked like an effort had been made to clear it a year or so ago - my thanks to whoever did it. From what the lady in the taverna at Krikello said and my own internet research, the Karpenesi to Delphi section of the E4 is more popular than previous sections I have walked in Greece (with the exception of Mount Olympus). The E4 just skirts the top of Stavli, but goes through the centre of Ambliani, a village of shuttered houses with red, corrugated iron roofs. Here I found (to my joy) a taverna open in the square by the church. I was not sure at first as there were no signs saying it was a taverna, but a man opened the door and welcomed me in. A helpful customer who spoke good English (having studied in Newcastle) arranged food for me. Visiting for the Easter holidays he said most of the village houses were holiday homes which is why their shutters were all closed, but as summer comes more of the houses would be occupied. The Easter holidays was the reason the taverna was open. They were maybe pleased to see me visiting their village as my coffee and Coke were on the house!
After Ambliani I continued on the forest paths up to one of the many churches that dot the hills. Then it was steeply downhill all the way to my second river crossing of the day. Here the previously numerous waymarks suddenly stopped completely. My GPS took me up a dirt track which should have led to a ford across the river a few hundred metres upstream. Unfortunately parts of the track had been completely washed away by the river. To avoid the first washed out section I had to climb up a very steep section of the valley side, scrambling over moss covered boulders, pushing through trees and then carefully negotiating a descent on the other side. I then decided to wade across the river, removing my socks for the second time today. As the water was deeper (although not so wide) I also removed my trousers, there was no one to see! After crossing the river I worked my way over boulders to reach where the dirt track continued up this side of the valley.
As it was now around 5:00 pm I walked a little way up the track and set up camp for the night on a grassy spot which seemed less prone to rock falls than other parts of the track. Tomorrow looked more like a road section which should at least mean faster progress.

Only 14.7 kilometres walked today over 8 hours, slow progress on slow paths, a total ascent of 920 metres.

A GPX file of my route can be downloaded from wikiloc.com, or from myViewRanger short code johnpon0042.

The square at Krikello

Good waymarking helped as path was difficult to spot

Ambliani

Second river crossing of day

Karpenesi to Krikello on the E4: Day 41

A day of roads, forest tracks and paths among the trees with some good waymarking.
Today is (Greek Orthodox) Easter Monday so the supermarkets were still closed, however I was able to buy some provisions from a kiosk, a bakery and a greengrocer (the last mentioned might not have been open but I walked in as they were busy unloading something). When I checked out of the Lecadin hotel I was touched that the man on reception remembered I was walking to Krikello today. He had numerous signed football shirts on the desk beside him, momentos left by teams staying at the hotel during their high altitude training at Karpenesi (which is at 1000 metres).
A walk downhill out of Karpenesi was followed by (the inevitable) walk uphill with some good views from the road back over town. At the village of Kalithea the church was gaily decorated with flags but no one was about, the cafe closed. Forest tracks led me onward to Myriki where the taverna was empty but open, or at least they served me a Greek coffee (and two almond(?) flavoured biscuits). I passed a snake on the way sunning itself on the track.
For the next section, forest tracks alternated with reasonably well marked paths. Sometimes I had to search for the path or push tree branches out of the way but in general the conditions were better than on previous "paths". There were some steep uphill sections before I reached a herd of cows (along with goats and sheep the main type of farming in the area). The route levelled out and then dropped down on tarmac to Krikello.
Plane trees, a number of tavernas and the church surround the square in this village. I stopped at one of the tavernas for a Coke, my feet tired, the ball of my left foot aching, and asked the kind, English speaking lady serving about accommodation. Turns out they had reasonably priced rooms nearby so now I am ensconced in a nice room with a toy stuffed cow beside me on the bed, happily replete after a meal of lamb, potatoes and salad, oh and a beer!

24.9 kilometres walked today with an ascent of 890 metres.

A GPX file of my route can be downloaded from wikiloc.com, or from myViewRanger short code johnpon0042.

Rest day at Karpenesi: Day 40 on the E4

After some long days with a lot of walking up and down mountains I decided a rest day was in order. So I have been sitting admiring the view across Karpenesi from my balcony at the Lecadin hotel. The town is surrounded by wooded hills beyond which are snow capped peaks. Gunshots of weekend hunters in the mountains intrude on the sound of traffic and birdsong.
I had hoped to stock up on food but today is Sunday and most shops are closed. Fortunately a chemist was open, as I have been suffering with numerous itchy insect bites over the last few days. Hopefully the cream I was sold will give me some relief.
Traditional Easter Sunday lunch seems to be a major event with roast lamb, a large helping of which I enjoyed at a busy Taverna in town. After eating there was a bouzouki and guitar player singing traditional songs plus some that sounded more upbeat with a drum beat added.
In the evening town was full of people having a coffee or some other drink. I tried a tsipouro, a local spirit made from grape residues after they have been pressed. Pleasant, but I thought it wise to stick to one, especially as it came from an unmarked bottle.

Guitar and bouzouki players at a restaurant after a traditional Easter Sunday lunch

Kerasochori to Karpenesi on the E4: Day 39

Another long day, with the best ancient arched bridge so far.
On walking down the forest track into Kerasochori I found the cafes all closed, possibly as it was before 8:00 am. So I took the road, then a dirt track heading for Karpenesi. The E4 then went along a path marked on the Anavasi map. I found the start of the path (and later it's end) but soon became entangled in branches of Holm oak as I tried to follow the path's track on my digital map. Holm or Holly Oaks are so called as their leaves are like small holly leaves with sharp spikes. These little leaves pricked my hands and worse, fell down my tee shirt to be squashed against my back by my rucksack. After a great deal of struggle and a few swear words I gave up on the path and returned to the tarmac on which I walked all the way to the village of Nea Viniane. In the middle of Viniane there was an open taverna where I had a coffee and bought a loaf of special Easter bread, soft and sweet. A kindly man (possibly the owner) paid for the coffee, possibly thinking that I would need it to get all the way to Karpenesi!
Leaving Viniane the E4 goes down a track to another ancient bridge. I particularly liked this one as it did not have a new concrete bridge next to it. It stood alone, a graceful thin arch, and was my way across the river to the next stage of the E4. This next bit was an old mule path which I was aprehensive about as experience suggested it would be overgrown, certainly I was unable to see it on Google Earth. Fortunately I was wrong, it was passable and well marked with recent E4 waymarks.
Before the bridge the route was downhill, after the bridge it was a long, sweaty, arduous climb, initially on a path, later on a quiet tarmaced road. Footsore, I eventually slogged up the 1000 metres needed to reach the high pass. Not long after the E4 branches off by a shrine on a wooded path. E4 waymarks helped to show the way as the path took me to a section of track alongside a stream, among the boulders. The stream had washed away part of the track in places and bulldozers had made new ones. New E4 signs then led me onto a small road that gave a view of Karpenesi below. Turning off to reach Hotel Lecadin, I followed instructions from the lady on Google maps along narrow roads and down numerous steps until the hotel rose up before me. Once there, and with very sore feet, I celebrated with a well deserved beer.

Tonight being Easter Saturday in the Orthodox calender, there was a special meal to mark the end of Lent at the late time of 10 pm, which the hotel generously offered me for free. As midnight approached I listened on my balcony to the service being sung in a church in the town below, then bells were rung and there were a few fireworks to celebrate Christ's resurrection.

34.4 kilometres for today's walk with an ascent of 1340 metres.

A GPX file of my track can be downloaded from wikiloc.com or you can download my route onto your smartphone from myviewranger.com code johnpon0041.

Ancient stone bridge near Viniane

Agrafa to Kerasochori on E4: Day 38

A long day, first along gravel roads in the "valley", then on a dirt track up into the mountains.
It was a shame to leave the Kyra Niki guesthouse with its two cheerful ladies, justly proud of their home cooking and garden produce. As I ate breakfast I looked out the window at snow streaked mountains with blue sky behind. In recent days the sky has been a whitish grey but today look set for lovely weather. I put on my tee shirt in preparation.
Agrafa is a charming village with stone paved roads and two cafes open as I passed, unlike previous villages where they were closed and empty. Maybe they were open as today is Good Friday in the Greek Orthodox Church and a public holiday. On walking down the winding gravel road to the valley bottom I found another ancient, arched bridge, no longer in use, and a taverna. It was open so I ordered my second cup of coffee of the day (for 2 euros). There was what looked like a fish farm beside the taverna, so I guess their fish is fresh!
After passing between two cliffs the gravel road climbed high up the valley side and then dropped down into a larger valley which it followed to the bridge at Varvariada (a place rather than a village). Recently widened, the fresh road cuttings revealed a complex structural geology with folds and faults readily visible. My estimate of the distance to Varvariada turned out to be wrong, with 5 extra kilometres to be walked, one reason why it was such a long day. However I was fortified by a further cup of coffee at a ramshackle cafe beside the road, served with a cinnamon biscuit and piece of spinach(?) pie. Yummy and all for 1 euro and served by a pleasant lady. The other customers had their pick ups outside, the main means of transport it seems, replacing the mule of ages past.
At Varvariada I could take the "official" E4 route which now followed a tarmac road for the rest of the day. Not being a very enticing option I followed a more scenic route devised by previous hikers (greekhiking.com and Cicerone's book "Trekking in Greece") up and along the mountainside on forest tracks. According to my two maps the only way to reach the dirt track to start this route was up a path. I am sure there was an easier route but I tried the path, guarded by a dog on a chain. This mainly consisted of following various goat tracks up a very steep, stony slope through low trees. Very strenuous but not very far before I reached the dirt track I was looking for. This led up the mountainside by a series of large switchbacks through the trees to a col at 1400 metres. A 1000 metre climb but on an easy track, recently graded and cleared of fallen trees and rocks.
I sat at the top and admired the view drinking my declining supplies of water (no springs since Varvariada). I could see a lake 10 kilometres away among the rows of mountains. A grey lake, grey mountains, grey sky all shades of muted grey in the afternoon haze. 
At around 7 pm, somewhat later than expected I arrived at a promontory with a flat area of grass and pitched my tent for the night. There is a small shrine nearby, they leave oil and matches at these places and I wondered whether to light the lamp (but didn't). A deer is barking nearby, birds are twittering, in the far distance bells are ringing, and maybe I can hear Mass being sung, far away down in the next valley.

34.4 kilometres walked today with a total scent of 1400 metres.

A GPX file of my track can be downloaded from wikiloc.com or you can download my route onto your smartphone from myviewranger.com code johnpon0041.

Morning view from Agrafa

My guesthouse at Agrafa

The valley I was following

Petrilo to Agrafa on the E4: Day 37

A day of walking on gravel roads along the valley sides.
The valleys here are "V" shaped, formed by rivers rather than glaciers, in a young mountain chain ("young" in a geological time scale). This means that there is not much flat space, if any, beside the river, so villages tend to be built on shoulders of land up the valley side. This lack of flat land also means that roads along the valleys must be cut into the steep mountainsides. Consequently, there were some dramatic sections today with cliffs above or below the road, some of which looked ready to collapse. At the base of the tree lined slopes, the river was full and foaming as it swept across its bed of boulders, sometimes between cliffs or passed scree.
I had imagined today would be an easy walk down some valleys followed by a climb up to Agrafa at the end of the day. In reality there was a lot more climbing than I expected as the roads move up and down the valley sides as their makers tried to find a section of slope a little less steep or shoulder into which they could cut a roadway. The road had no doubt replaced an earlier mule track, I saw two of the ancient stone bridges that they would have used, which have now been replaced by less elegant bridges located beside them.
Following the gravel road down to Koystesa and Vraggiana I saw few people and sadly no open cafe for a coffee. Like other villages in the area I noticed that Vraggiana had made efforts at civic improvement, the black lampstands with the bulbs in glass globes seem popular feature. Further on a picnic and camping area had been built but brambles were now engulfing the rubbish bins, the toilet full of leaves.
In my efforts to follow the E4 I was planning to cross the river and follow a mule track up the steep hillside. The bridge was there as expected, if a little dilapidated. It was built over an earlier stone bridge that had collapsed. The first part of the mule track was walkable as it climbed around a rock. After that it deteriorated to such an extent that I decided against trying to follow it. I suspected it would disappear altogether in some landslip on a steep slope. Being deep in the valley my GPS was giving erratic readings so I could not rely on it to help me find the path if I lost it. After deliberating I retraced my steps a few kilometres and walked up a gravel road to the village of Agrafa with its scattered houses, just as it was starting to rain.
I have now had my dinner at the Kyra Niki guesthouse (baked aubergine stuffed with onion, feta cheese, spring greens), with a view down the valley and a log fire in the grate. A short walk down into the village centre showed it to be more active than any since Elati, with Evening Mass being sung and a few cafes open. Back in my room my socks are drying nicely on the radiator...

I walked 31.5 kilometres including the detour to examine the mule track route to Agrafa. Without this wasted journey it would have been 26.6 kilometres, plus a total ascent of 710 metres.

A GPX file of my track can be downloaded from wikiloc.com or you can download my route onto your smartphone from myviewranger.com code johnpon0041.

Looking back towards Koystesa

View from the road

Looking down a typical "V" shaped valley, the road on the right.

Argithea to Petrilo on the E4: Day 36

A day for taking a cautious route but still with the reward of looking down on the clouds (and a late lunch).
My planned route went up to 1750 metres at which height extensive snow could be expected. The Anavasi map shows the E4 following a path up a valley to reach a ridge at this height. My experience of the last few days made me suspicious that any such path now existed, consequently I was not surprised to see no sign of it where it was mapped as starting. There was a dirt track a little later that might have gone in the right direction but I decided on a more reliable option.
I walked up the track I had been following to where a tarmaced road reached a high pass. From here a dirt track, visible on all my maps, would take me to Vlassio, the next village on the E4, joining the Anavasi route after a few kilometres. Walking a little way along I could see plenty of snow, but enough of the track looked snow free for me to make a safe passage despite it being over 1700 metres. Apart from a few sections of wading through snow drifts I made reasonably good progress. My reward was a view down onto the top of the clouds covering the plain of Thessaly. I find looking down on clouds from a height especially appealing, making the effort of climbing many hundreds of metres worthwhile. The thought that the population on the plains were having a cloudy day while I had weak sunshine also gave me some satisfaction (while I chewed on some sticky dried cherries).
After contouring past a few mountains, admiring the purple crocuses and yellow coltsfoot, it was time to descend to Vlassio. I chose a route I could see on Google Earth rather than the one on the Anavasi map. Possibly a mistake as my route was longer, heading first along the mountainside before descending to Vlassio in some large loops. One of these loops was cut off by a large and recent landslide, although I was able to clamber over the blocks of earth, uprooted vegetation and boulders to continue down the track.
The red roofs of Vlassio appeared quite suddenly, spread over the hillside. Google indicated a cafe existed but it was closed, maybe I was too early in the season. There was a strange water wheel made of buckets welded to a circular frame that was slowly turning. It did not appear to power anything, maybe just a folly to attract passers-by like myself.
Badly in need of a coffee I continued, now on tarmac, to the bottom of the valley and up the valley on the opposite side. This led to a group of villages centred on Petrilo. It was with much joy that I found a taverna come shop which was open. The smiling couple running the place spoke no English but translation was provided by a workman installing something at the Taverna, possibly a red LED sign advertising the place and giving the time and a temperature (that latter was about 5 degrees too high judging by the traditional thermometer inside). Soon I was tucking into a 3 egg omelette, tomato salad, cheese and bread, and my cup of coffee.
Fortified I made my way up to the pass at the head of the tree lined valley. Since Vlassio I was seeing a few E4 signs, the last one stating Vraggiana and Koystesa were both 3 1/2 hours away. As these two villages are a few kilometres apart one of these statements must be wrong.
I am now comfortably camped on a rare piece of flat, grassy ground at the pass itself, surrounded by pine trees, planning my accommodation for the next few days...

34 kilometres walked today excluding searching for cafes and missed turnings, 1360 metres total ascent.

A GPX file of my track can be downloaded from wikiloc.com or you can download my route onto your smartphone from myviewranger.com code johnpon0041.

Looking down on the clouds

The track I took from Argithea to Vlassio, snowy but walkable

Village of  Vlassio, like most villages in the area it clings to the hillside

Psarro to Argithea on the E4: Day 35

A day on which I decided against climbing a 1760 metre mountain due to snow and poor weather but still struggled to find the path in the snow and mist 300 metres lower.
Rain was forecast for today and I woke to hear it pattering on the veranda roof outside my bedroom. Clouds obscured the mountain tops. I had originally planned to follow the route on the Anavasi map which climbed up a mountain to 1760 metres but the experience of the last two days suggested there would be a lot of snow and possibly poor paths. Mountains in the area all have very steep sides so the risk of sliding and injuring myself seemed very real. In addition the poor visibility would mean I would not be able to see far enough ahead to ensure I did not enter difficult terrain, and the path, if it existed, could be hard to spot.
Fortunately Nikolas Kroupi of Hotel Kroupi had given me an alternative route peaking at around 1500 metres where it joined Anavasi's mapping of the E4. Based on yesterday's experience snow should only be patchy at that altitude. After assessing the risks I headed off along Nikolas' route. Sadly this involved descending to the bottom of a valley losing some 600 metres in height which I then had to regain climbing up the other side. The valleys in this area are steep sided and very deep, about 1000 metres from the top of the mountains to the bottom of the major valleys, very much Alpine terrain.
The walk to the bottom on a dirt track was pleasant, it had stopped raining for while, and although the mountain tops were hidden in cloud, there was an extensive vista of steep slopes: tree lined lower down, rocky and snowy higher up with screes cutting through the trees in places.
The climb on a dirt track up a side valley followed a stream, swollen to a river by the melting snow, with a boulder strewn bed and initially bordered by plane trees. I had to cross the stream a few times, on the first occasion the water depth made it necessary to remove my socks and roll up my trousers to wade across soaking my boots, higher up it was less deep. The track wound back and forth as it climbed up the steepening valley, and as it was now raining I was getting pretty hot in my anorak. Nearer the top I was crossing scree slopes, and although on a vehicle track I had to pick my way through small rock falls in places. On the valley sides there were ribbon waterfalls cascading down cracks in the rock for tens or hundreds of metres.
I reached the top shortly after eating the remains of the generous breakfast served to me at the Hotel Zampakas Panorama this morning, which I had wrapped up for lunch. I now had to branch off onto a path going to Argithea, this was difficult to find as I was now in the clouds with visibility down to 10 metres and banks of snow hiding landscape features. I began to doubt whether the path, shown on various maps, now had any physical manifestation.
I followed my GPS route through the mist, picking up small animal tracks where the ground was not covered in snow. The slope I was crossing became progressively steeper with ridges of rock alternating with lengths of snow. As I crossed the steep, snow covered sections, the mist prevented me from seeing how far I could slide down if I slipped, the white snow blending in with the white cloud.
After a very slow traverse, and some rusty barbed wire that entangled my boots, the slope became more gentle and the ground grassy. I was able to pick up a goat track heading in the right direction, ready to face the next obstacle. Creeping juniper bushes became extensive, blocking the path, the branches grabbing at my clothing as I pushed through.
Finally, as I dropped below the clouds, I joined a dirt track that wound down to the village of Argithea. Sadly the cafe and taverna were both closed, many of the houses also looked shuttered up for the season. An effort had been made to attract tourists with a wooden railed walkway highlighting the old stone bridge. I peered in the church set on the hillside with a square outside and benches and lamps, that were switched on for some reason.
I left the empty village and climbed up the track dictated by my GPS. After passing the last house of the scattered community I looked for a place to camp. I found a patch of flat pasture, last used by cows the previous autumn judging from the scattered old dung. Given the number of rock falls and fallen trees I had passed, a flat area like this, away from steep slopes seemed a good idea. Having pitched my tent I am now listening to the noise of the rain hitting the flysheet while trying to wring the water out of my socks.

24 kilometres covered today and a total ascent of about 1100 metres.

A GPX file of my track can be downloaded from wikiloc.com or you can download my route onto your smartphone from myviewranger.com code johnpon0041.

Crossing snow covered areas in the clouds

Elati to Psarro on the E4: Day 34

A day in the mountains on some good trails and some where there may once have been a path...
After leaving Elati the route recommended by Nikolas of Hotel Kroupi took me off the tarmac onto a dirt road. A little way along a farmer greeted me and indicated that the way ahead was a "monopati", a footpath, and a very pleasant one, taking me up through trees, some fallen, and over a brook to a tarmaced road.
After a little way on the road I turned off onto another dirt track then a very small path, which I initially missed as I was busy admiring the surrounding snowy, sharp peaked mountains and the view back to Elati. The path was marked with strips of the red and white plastic warning tape, the red faded to a weak yellow. It's location was not always clear with fallen trees blocking the path in places but it took me without too much difficulty back to the road some way further on.
Then it was off on another path which proved invisible to the naked eye! Following my GPS track I climbed through the pine woods, following animal trails until they died out. This was easy in places but in others, branches, the rotten remains of old trees and juniper bushes made progress slow, especially with the frequent checks of my GPS to ensure I was headed in the right direction. The path was marked on the Anavasi map and I came across one black and yellow waymark of the type that marks the E4, so I was on the right route. It broadly followed a ridge and periodically I had great views back to Elati.
It was a joy when the trees finally ended and I climbed up a rocky, limestone section unimpeded by branches. After an initial peak I contoured around the steep side of the mountain (which began to make the edges of my feet painful). Following a slippery grassy section there were alternating ridges of rock and snow coming down the hillside. Fortunately the snow was soft, but not too soft, so I could dig my feet in and get a grip on the steeply falling slope, helped by my trekking pole, as I traversed the chutes of snow. I was glad of my gloves as I used my hands to maintain balance on the cold snow.
After a final section of grassy ridge I rejoined a dirt track which took me along the side of another mountain. Villages and winding roads were spread out below me on the side of the valley, including Psarro where my hotel was. To reach it I left the track after a few kilometres and followed a valley downhill, pushing through beech saplings beside the stream to reach a final dirt track. There may well have been better routes down, one is described in trekkingpsarro.com for which I was handed a leaflet at the hotel this evening. The dirt track took me over a scree slope, it's fallen rocks spread across the track, through a herd of goats, to my destination, a section of freshly poured concrete being my final obstacle (being a thoughtful person I climbed down the slope to avoid it rather than leave my boot prints permanently frozen in the roadway).
So now I am in front of the log fire at the Hotel Zampaka Panorama having enjoyed my dinner and a beer, well deserved after 9 hours on the trail. Rain is forecast for tomorrow, and I will be camping....

26.2 kilometres today (not including the extra distance due to missing a turn) with a total ascent of 1220 metres.

A GPX file of my track can be downloaded from wikiloc.com or you can download my route onto your smartphone from myviewranger.com code johnpon0041.

Sort of a path in places if you look hard and a rare yellow and black E4 waymark

Some steep chutes of snow to cross

Looking down on villages and winding roads in the valley

Glikomilia to Elati on the E4: Day 33

A day high in the mountains although snow prevented me from reaching the Koziakas Refuge, and forced me onto an alternate route.
Having survived the night without a bear attack I headed off up the track, which was awash with water from melting snow higher up. Foolishly, I thought the Koziakas refuge was an hour or so from where I camped, and indeed it was not that far away in a straight line, however the straight line route involved a very steep climb up a path I could not find among the trees and undergrowth. Instead I followed a dirt track that wound around the mountain, switching back and fore up the steepest bits. The climb was still an effort and there were several fallen trees across the road. Above around 1500 metres I was wading through snow drifts following occasional bear prints. I saw no bears but frightened a few deer.
By the time I approached the refuge the path was covered with snow, locally several feet thick. In addition it ran along a steep slope and I risked injury if I slipped down it. As the snow on these higher steep slopes was so hard, my boots made little impression even when I kicked into the snow. With crampons and an ice axe it would have been easy, as I had neither at a particularly steep and hard area of snow above a possible cliff I decided that discretion was the better part of valour, and turned back maybe a 100 metres from the refuge (I was not sure of the exact distance as the maps I had gave slightly different positions for the refuge). Google Earth showed there was a clear track under the snow and a few weeks later I am sure I would have made it. As it was I followed a back up route from Spazieren.de which took me down a path through the fir trees to a road. Most of it was well marked with a variety of waymarks including many stuck up in 2018 by the mountain association. The downside was that I had to walk along several kilometres of two lane road to reach the village of Elati. It appeared much favoured by people on motorbikes, leaning into the bends.
Elati is very much geared towards tourists with many tavernas, hotels, gift shops with carved walking sticks and stalls selling honey (although with few tourists around to buy it).
I am comfortably installed in the Hotel Kroupi, glad of a shower, a view of the mountains from my bedroom window.
Later in the evening I met George, a local hiker and his friend, in a nearby cafe. He gave me advice on the condition of the tracks I will be following in the next few days. They didn't sound too difficult...

21.4 km today excluding my attempt to reach the refuge, and an ascent of 930 metres. 

A GPX file of my track can be downloaded from wikiloc.com or you can download my route onto your smartphone from myviewranger.com code johnpon0041.

Snow close to the point at which I gave up my attempt at reaching the Refuge

View towards Elati

Kalambaka to Glikomilia on the E4: Day 32

A fine day of walking on varied surfaces through woodland in the sun.
After leaving Hotel Rex and picking up some lunch snacks at the bakery opposite I followed tarmaced roads to the pleasant village of Diava, passing poppies of the deepest red among the roadside flowers. In Diava, being too early to sample one of the various cafes, I sat by the church and listened to mass being intoned over loud speakers, which made sure much of the village could hear it.
Leaving, I had a choice of three routes. The Anavasi map showed the E4 going up to the village of Koromila and then descending to Glikomilia, however between the two villages I could see no sign of a path on Google Earth and no record of anyone taking this route. Most sources instead went via the village of Kria Vrasi (e.g. spazieren.de and notes from the early 1990's by Anastasion Rigas provided by netzwerk-weitwandern.de)  however this involved more road walking. Nikolas of Hotel Kroupi provided another option avoiding roads and Kris Vrasi. This is the one I followed.
Nikolas' route followed a track out of Diava that was initially good but became progressively more overgrown. I eventually lost the path and followed the GPS trail provided up a steep slope through oak trees, their branches snagging me and my rucksack. Vague paths came and went until I reached one that was more persistent, leading to a dirt track.
I diverted along the track to visit the small church of Agios Ioannis. A spot made beautiful by the views of distant Meteora and the bright yellow flowers and purple blossom in front of the church. The church made it worth the effort of taking this route.
Dirt tracks then took me all the way to Glikomilia, the oak trees on lower slopes with their bright young leaves grading imperceptibly into darker green pine trees higher up. On route there was another church, built into the hillside with picnic tables and children's playground equipment looking abandoned and forlorn among the fallen leaves.
I saw no people or vehicles between Diava and Glikomilia, but on reaching the latter there were a number of people to exchange greetings with as they worked in their gardens or put out washing. Two places that might have been cafes were closed, so I ate my lunch by the church. A black clothed priest came out with his chainsaw to cut down some overhanging branches on a tree beside the building.
Leaving Glikomilia the track followed the contours winding in and out of steep valleys crossing numerous small streams. I scattered a herd of goats on the road while the goatherd threw his walking stick at his dogs who were threatening me. Fortunately he managed to corral his animals with a command they seemed to understand. After several small farms I reached another church, well cared for with a candle burning before the Icons. Sitting down on one of the plastic chairs I meditated a little.
As 5:00 pm approached, I took advantage of a flatter area of ground and set up camp for the night. The map suggested I was beside yet another church but I could see no sign of it, unless the piles of stones beside me were it's remains. Writing this I am a little apprehensive as I saw some bear tracks earlier, however I should be safe as I have heard of no reports of campers being attacked by bears in Greece, yet....

27 kilometres walked today with a 1240 metre ascent.

A GPX file of my track can be downloaded from wikiloc.com or you can download my route onto your smartphone from myviewranger.com code johnpon0041.

Agios Ioannis church with Kalambaka in far distance

Campsite for the night, near the track and handy for a stream for washing

Return to Kalambaka on the E4: Day 31

A day of travel returning to Kalambaka via Thessalonika ready to walk through the Pindus mountains on some route close to the E4.

After a long day travelling, by plane from Gatwick to Thessaloniki airport, by bus through the busy streets of the city, another coach to Trikala (confusingly not at the scheduled time) and finally a bus to Kalambaka. At one stage a silver haired old lady sat by me, completely dressed in black including the headscarf. A very traditional look but no longer common. As I approached Trikala the snow capped mountains I hope to cross in a few days time came into view. I was warned that trekking in April (albeit now late April) can be tricky with regard to weather. Snow could be a issue in the mountains. I have brought my winter sleeping bag and some warm clothes in case, but ploughing through snow can be slow going. Then, later on my trip the cold weather gear will just be extra weight as spring turns to summer. Still, there is the possibility of fairy tale, snowy landscapes!

My research on this section of E4 through the Pindus mountains came up with a number of routes. Anavasi maps show what may have been the original route, however in places, even in the earliest reports, hikers have taken different trails, maybe to avoid overgrown sections or long stretches of road, where the original mule tracks have now been straighened and tarmaced.

Tonight I am comfortably installed at the Hotel Rex, serviceable and modestly priced accommodation with a pleasant taverna opposite where a bouzouki and guitar player entertained me and other tourists while I ate my dinner.