A long day, first along gravel roads in the "valley", then on a dirt track up into the mountains.
It was a shame to leave the Kyra Niki guesthouse with its two cheerful ladies, justly proud of their home cooking and garden produce. As I ate breakfast I looked out the window at snow streaked mountains with blue sky behind. In recent days the sky has been a whitish grey but today look set for lovely weather. I put on my tee shirt in preparation.
Agrafa is a charming village with stone paved roads and two cafes open as I passed, unlike previous villages where they were closed and empty. Maybe they were open as today is Good Friday in the Greek Orthodox Church and a public holiday. On walking down the winding gravel road to the valley bottom I found another ancient, arched bridge, no longer in use, and a taverna. It was open so I ordered my second cup of coffee of the day (for 2 euros). There was what looked like a fish farm beside the taverna, so I guess their fish is fresh!
After passing between two cliffs the gravel road climbed high up the valley side and then dropped down into a larger valley which it followed to the bridge at Varvariada (a place rather than a village). Recently widened, the fresh road cuttings revealed a complex structural geology with folds and faults readily visible. My estimate of the distance to Varvariada turned out to be wrong, with 5 extra kilometres to be walked, one reason why it was such a long day. However I was fortified by a further cup of coffee at a ramshackle cafe beside the road, served with a cinnamon biscuit and piece of spinach(?) pie. Yummy and all for 1 euro and served by a pleasant lady. The other customers had their pick ups outside, the main means of transport it seems, replacing the mule of ages past.
At Varvariada I could take the "official" E4 route which now followed a tarmac road for the rest of the day. Not being a very enticing option I followed a more scenic route devised by previous hikers (greekhiking.com and Cicerone's book "Trekking in Greece") up and along the mountainside on forest tracks. According to my two maps the only way to reach the dirt track to start this route was up a path. I am sure there was an easier route but I tried the path, guarded by a dog on a chain. This mainly consisted of following various goat tracks up a very steep, stony slope through low trees. Very strenuous but not very far before I reached the dirt track I was looking for. This led up the mountainside by a series of large switchbacks through the trees to a col at 1400 metres. A 1000 metre climb but on an easy track, recently graded and cleared of fallen trees and rocks.
I sat at the top and admired the view drinking my declining supplies of water (no springs since Varvariada). I could see a lake 10 kilometres away among the rows of mountains. A grey lake, grey mountains, grey sky all shades of muted grey in the afternoon haze.
At around 7 pm, somewhat later than expected I arrived at a promontory with a flat area of grass and pitched my tent for the night. There is a small shrine nearby, they leave oil and matches at these places and I wondered whether to light the lamp (but didn't). A deer is barking nearby, birds are twittering, in the far distance bells are ringing, and maybe I can hear Mass being sung, far away down in the next valley.
34.4 kilometres walked today with a total scent of 1400 metres.
A GPX file of my track can be downloaded from wikiloc.com or you can download my route onto your smartphone from myviewranger.com code johnpon0041.
It was a shame to leave the Kyra Niki guesthouse with its two cheerful ladies, justly proud of their home cooking and garden produce. As I ate breakfast I looked out the window at snow streaked mountains with blue sky behind. In recent days the sky has been a whitish grey but today look set for lovely weather. I put on my tee shirt in preparation.
Agrafa is a charming village with stone paved roads and two cafes open as I passed, unlike previous villages where they were closed and empty. Maybe they were open as today is Good Friday in the Greek Orthodox Church and a public holiday. On walking down the winding gravel road to the valley bottom I found another ancient, arched bridge, no longer in use, and a taverna. It was open so I ordered my second cup of coffee of the day (for 2 euros). There was what looked like a fish farm beside the taverna, so I guess their fish is fresh!
After passing between two cliffs the gravel road climbed high up the valley side and then dropped down into a larger valley which it followed to the bridge at Varvariada (a place rather than a village). Recently widened, the fresh road cuttings revealed a complex structural geology with folds and faults readily visible. My estimate of the distance to Varvariada turned out to be wrong, with 5 extra kilometres to be walked, one reason why it was such a long day. However I was fortified by a further cup of coffee at a ramshackle cafe beside the road, served with a cinnamon biscuit and piece of spinach(?) pie. Yummy and all for 1 euro and served by a pleasant lady. The other customers had their pick ups outside, the main means of transport it seems, replacing the mule of ages past.
At Varvariada I could take the "official" E4 route which now followed a tarmac road for the rest of the day. Not being a very enticing option I followed a more scenic route devised by previous hikers (greekhiking.com and Cicerone's book "Trekking in Greece") up and along the mountainside on forest tracks. According to my two maps the only way to reach the dirt track to start this route was up a path. I am sure there was an easier route but I tried the path, guarded by a dog on a chain. This mainly consisted of following various goat tracks up a very steep, stony slope through low trees. Very strenuous but not very far before I reached the dirt track I was looking for. This led up the mountainside by a series of large switchbacks through the trees to a col at 1400 metres. A 1000 metre climb but on an easy track, recently graded and cleared of fallen trees and rocks.
I sat at the top and admired the view drinking my declining supplies of water (no springs since Varvariada). I could see a lake 10 kilometres away among the rows of mountains. A grey lake, grey mountains, grey sky all shades of muted grey in the afternoon haze.
At around 7 pm, somewhat later than expected I arrived at a promontory with a flat area of grass and pitched my tent for the night. There is a small shrine nearby, they leave oil and matches at these places and I wondered whether to light the lamp (but didn't). A deer is barking nearby, birds are twittering, in the far distance bells are ringing, and maybe I can hear Mass being sung, far away down in the next valley.
34.4 kilometres walked today with a total scent of 1400 metres.
A GPX file of my track can be downloaded from wikiloc.com or you can download my route onto your smartphone from myviewranger.com code johnpon0041.
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| Morning view from Agrafa |
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| My guesthouse at Agrafa |
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| The valley I was following |
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