Today, a walk up a railway line in a gorge, something a bit different for the E4.
Not much of a navigational challenge today, it was simply a matter of walking up the 120 year old railway line, known as "Odontotos", from the station at Diakofto to the one at Kalavryta. It is a narrow gauge railway with rack and pinion used on the steep sections and runs through the Chelmos - Vouraikos National Park. The first half of the 23 kilometre ascent was the most exciting, as the gorge was narrow in places with steep sides of conglomerate and limestone rock. Deep red poppies and other flowers spotted the sides of the track. There were numerous bridges and short tunnels, the bridges had an open construction so I could see the Vouraikos river beneath me as I carefully stepped across. "No pedestrian" signs were posted on the bridges, a bit silly as the maps and waymarking clearly showed the E4 crossing them. There was no alternative as the river below was in full flow, its massive volume foaming white as it raced across the rocks. Shapes formed by the river as it cut down into the rock made for dramatic scenery. I had confirmed that there were no trains scheduled and was glad as the gap between the rails and the river or rock face was not always that large. Then, just as I was sitting down on a pile of sleepers beside the track a train passed me! No passengers so I suppose they were just checking things.
I found the train stationary at the village of Zachlorou, roughly the halfway point of my day's walk. By a memorial to, I assumed, those who died in 1943 I ate my lunch, bought at a bakery this morning. A flaky slice of spinach pie and bread with cheese and ham baked in with it. Too much for lunch really. I had over-indulged and felt guilty as I looked at the memorial and the suffering it recorded.
The tracks above Zachlorou were not as shiny as those below and sleepers stacked on top of the track prevented trains from continuing. I passed beneath some roadworks, maybe the reason why scheduled trains had been cancelled. Not far above the village the valley opened out, soft and green instead of hard rock. I met a few people walking the other way, out for a short walk on a sunny day.
Tourist type shops lined the pedestrianised streets of Kalavryta but there is no room in my rucksack for jars of honey or a hand carved shepherd's crook. On the main street a railway line motif is worked into the cobbles that I walked on. I am staying the Hotel Filoxenia, a modern, efficient place with a helpful receptionist. It is reasonably busy, in part with middle aged German bikers, but the tavernas in the village are almost empty. I am the sole diner in the one I arbitrarily chose (for a meal of goat, potatoes and salad).
23.5 kilometres walked to day with an ascent of 750 metres.
Not much of a navigational challenge today, it was simply a matter of walking up the 120 year old railway line, known as "Odontotos", from the station at Diakofto to the one at Kalavryta. It is a narrow gauge railway with rack and pinion used on the steep sections and runs through the Chelmos - Vouraikos National Park. The first half of the 23 kilometre ascent was the most exciting, as the gorge was narrow in places with steep sides of conglomerate and limestone rock. Deep red poppies and other flowers spotted the sides of the track. There were numerous bridges and short tunnels, the bridges had an open construction so I could see the Vouraikos river beneath me as I carefully stepped across. "No pedestrian" signs were posted on the bridges, a bit silly as the maps and waymarking clearly showed the E4 crossing them. There was no alternative as the river below was in full flow, its massive volume foaming white as it raced across the rocks. Shapes formed by the river as it cut down into the rock made for dramatic scenery. I had confirmed that there were no trains scheduled and was glad as the gap between the rails and the river or rock face was not always that large. Then, just as I was sitting down on a pile of sleepers beside the track a train passed me! No passengers so I suppose they were just checking things.
I found the train stationary at the village of Zachlorou, roughly the halfway point of my day's walk. By a memorial to, I assumed, those who died in 1943 I ate my lunch, bought at a bakery this morning. A flaky slice of spinach pie and bread with cheese and ham baked in with it. Too much for lunch really. I had over-indulged and felt guilty as I looked at the memorial and the suffering it recorded.
The tracks above Zachlorou were not as shiny as those below and sleepers stacked on top of the track prevented trains from continuing. I passed beneath some roadworks, maybe the reason why scheduled trains had been cancelled. Not far above the village the valley opened out, soft and green instead of hard rock. I met a few people walking the other way, out for a short walk on a sunny day.
Tourist type shops lined the pedestrianised streets of Kalavryta but there is no room in my rucksack for jars of honey or a hand carved shepherd's crook. On the main street a railway line motif is worked into the cobbles that I walked on. I am staying the Hotel Filoxenia, a modern, efficient place with a helpful receptionist. It is reasonably busy, in part with middle aged German bikers, but the tavernas in the village are almost empty. I am the sole diner in the one I arbitrarily chose (for a meal of goat, potatoes and salad).
23.5 kilometres walked to day with an ascent of 750 metres.
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| One of the many short tunnels on the railway line |
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| One of the many bridges, note the "no pedestrians" sign on the right and the yellow and black waymark, indicating the E4 on the left |
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| An unexpected train |
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