A walk between the high walls of the Agia Irini gorge, followed by a climb up the steep Figou gorge to the Omalos plateau.
From Sougia there are three alternative E4 routes: one along the coast, a second by the mountain of Psilafi and a third up the Agia Irini gorge. Descriptions in guide books, and a wish to go down the Samaria gorge tomorrow, caused me to choose the third option.
After a pain au chocolat and coffee at a nearby bakery I left the Lissos rooms as spots of rain were falling. Thankfully the rain stopped after a half hour or so and later the sun shone. My GPS said to head up the stream bed of the water course that lies at the eastern end of Sougia. I stumbled over the rounded stones and boulders, or followed transient tracks on adjacent areas of sandy soil populated by pines and pink flowering shrubs. There was no water but damage to roads I came across suggests there were some high flowrates in the recent winter.
After a concrete bridge I sometimes walked on the road, which was easier, and sometimes on the stream bed. The quiet road terminated at a car park and cafe (where I enjoyed a homemade lemonade) that marked the beginning of the gorge. From here the route was marked with blue or red paint. Sometimes there were paths on one side of the river or the other, sometimes you walked on the rounded pebbles in the stream bed. It was wise not to miss the painted markers when they took you off on some path, as following the stream bed all the time would mean climbing over large boulders, which would require some technical skill. On a few occasions a search was needed to work out where the painted markers had gone to. In places there were steps and railings, crudely constructed. There were also some picnic tables under the trees and taps for water. Trees were clinging to the walls of the gorge which were much higher than I expected. Looking up to see the top of the cliffs was difficult as I was liable to trip over some rock. In places the path zig zaged up the slope to go around areas of huge boulders. Quite a few people were coming down the gorge but for most of my trip I was alone and could see no-one.
Near its top, where water was now tinkling over the stones, I left the Agia Irini gorge and headed up the Figou gorge. This had a much steeper gradient, the path frequently changing direction as it gained height, passing a group of goats at one point. As I sweated up a lady said I was near the top, she lied (maybe to encourage me?). When I finally reached the top of the Figou gorge, there was an old, but well constructed mule track which led me up to the road. There were even a few benches on which to rest.
Once on the road I soon reached the Omalos plateau; a flat, farmed expanse, surrounded by mountains. The grass looked green rather than straw coloured as it did nearer sea level in my walk through Crete. A more relaxed walk along empty roads then took me to Hotel Gigilos Omalos. Actually a taverna with rooms attached, of which there are a few here.
19.7 kilometres walked today with an ascent of 1210 metres.
From Sougia there are three alternative E4 routes: one along the coast, a second by the mountain of Psilafi and a third up the Agia Irini gorge. Descriptions in guide books, and a wish to go down the Samaria gorge tomorrow, caused me to choose the third option.
After a pain au chocolat and coffee at a nearby bakery I left the Lissos rooms as spots of rain were falling. Thankfully the rain stopped after a half hour or so and later the sun shone. My GPS said to head up the stream bed of the water course that lies at the eastern end of Sougia. I stumbled over the rounded stones and boulders, or followed transient tracks on adjacent areas of sandy soil populated by pines and pink flowering shrubs. There was no water but damage to roads I came across suggests there were some high flowrates in the recent winter.
After a concrete bridge I sometimes walked on the road, which was easier, and sometimes on the stream bed. The quiet road terminated at a car park and cafe (where I enjoyed a homemade lemonade) that marked the beginning of the gorge. From here the route was marked with blue or red paint. Sometimes there were paths on one side of the river or the other, sometimes you walked on the rounded pebbles in the stream bed. It was wise not to miss the painted markers when they took you off on some path, as following the stream bed all the time would mean climbing over large boulders, which would require some technical skill. On a few occasions a search was needed to work out where the painted markers had gone to. In places there were steps and railings, crudely constructed. There were also some picnic tables under the trees and taps for water. Trees were clinging to the walls of the gorge which were much higher than I expected. Looking up to see the top of the cliffs was difficult as I was liable to trip over some rock. In places the path zig zaged up the slope to go around areas of huge boulders. Quite a few people were coming down the gorge but for most of my trip I was alone and could see no-one.
Near its top, where water was now tinkling over the stones, I left the Agia Irini gorge and headed up the Figou gorge. This had a much steeper gradient, the path frequently changing direction as it gained height, passing a group of goats at one point. As I sweated up a lady said I was near the top, she lied (maybe to encourage me?). When I finally reached the top of the Figou gorge, there was an old, but well constructed mule track which led me up to the road. There were even a few benches on which to rest.
Once on the road I soon reached the Omalos plateau; a flat, farmed expanse, surrounded by mountains. The grass looked green rather than straw coloured as it did nearer sea level in my walk through Crete. A more relaxed walk along empty roads then took me to Hotel Gigilos Omalos. Actually a taverna with rooms attached, of which there are a few here.
19.7 kilometres walked today with an ascent of 1210 metres.
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| The Dragon Arum, a dramatic looking plant found in the gorge which has an unpleasant smell |
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| The Agia Irini gorge |
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| Omalos plateau |
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