My last walking day of this trip when after some 36 kilometres (and over 1000 metres total ascent) I reached the town of Kalampaka, walking through wooded valleys and by large rock outcrops finishing among the monasteries of Meteora.
I was on the road by 7:00 am when it was still dark. As the road reached its highest point the orange and white lights of distant villages flickered like gems below me. In the overcast morning sky my route took me several kilometres along a tarmac road as it cautiously descended down a wooded valley. Towards the end of this section a change in the landscape was evident as large conglomeratic sandstone outcrops began appearing, layers rich in well rounded pebbles alternating with sandier levels. I turned off the road onto a dirt track the led up through a valley with large rock outcrops on each side. In the side of one, built into a cave was a small chapel or hermitage, a sign said "Palaiopanagia". Steps were cut into the rock so that you could reach it, with iron handrails to prevent you falling off. Unfortunately the chapel itself was locked although some paintings could be seen. Farther up the valley the track reached the village of Vlachaba, built on a steep slope. There being no sign of a cafe I walked onto the crest of the ridge at the top of Vlachaba.
From then on it was down a valley through the woods towards Meteora, although missing a turn and blocked by a gate I had to climb back up, somewhat peeved, at one point. At another I had to throw stones to persuade a pack of manically barking dogs of assorted varieties not to come too close, the cows I suppose they were guarding were less concerned.
Finally I was approaching the famous monasteries of Meteora, built on, or into, great pillars of rock. I diverted off the main track to walk among them. The first I saw, the Holy Monastery of Ipapantis, was embedded in the side of the cliff. Visiting time finished at 14:00, about the time I reached it so I walked up a narrow path towards the Monastery of Grand Meteoran. As I rounded the hill a line of cars and coaches greeted me. It is always a shock after some days of walking in solitude to be suddenly among a crowd of people talking in many languages and taking numerous photos of themselves. I climbed up the steps of the monastery as people pushed back down towards me, oblivious to my rucksack and the extra room it needed. At the church at the top the room before the nave had lots of paintings of saints being killed in various ways (beheaded, boiled, crucified etc.). I entered the nave respectfully, conscious that with God's help, or the result of my careful preparation, I had finished my trip safely, blessed by good weather, and that I had a beautiful wife waiting at home for my return. However it was difficult to contemplate such thoughts with all my fellow tourists pushing past. Sometimes I feel invisible to people.
I picked a footpath below the monastery to head down to the town of Kastraki, its starting point easily missed due to lack of use. I immediately lost all the tourists who tend to travel by car or coach (if only because of the hefty climbs involved in reaching these monasteries). The footpath was crudely paved with small boulders and led me down to a road. Beyond that the path was somewhat overgrown but I reached Kastraki and the helpful lady in the Tourist Information office reserved a room for me at the Hotel Rex in nearby Kalampaka and booked a seat for me on the bus to Thessaloniki tomorrow.
Hotel Rex was 20 minutes down the road and the tavernas of Kalampaka awaited me for my diner.
A file of my route suitable for your GPS from Wikiloc.com, or can be viewed on your smartphone with ViewRanger, shortcode johnpon0039.
I was on the road by 7:00 am when it was still dark. As the road reached its highest point the orange and white lights of distant villages flickered like gems below me. In the overcast morning sky my route took me several kilometres along a tarmac road as it cautiously descended down a wooded valley. Towards the end of this section a change in the landscape was evident as large conglomeratic sandstone outcrops began appearing, layers rich in well rounded pebbles alternating with sandier levels. I turned off the road onto a dirt track the led up through a valley with large rock outcrops on each side. In the side of one, built into a cave was a small chapel or hermitage, a sign said "Palaiopanagia". Steps were cut into the rock so that you could reach it, with iron handrails to prevent you falling off. Unfortunately the chapel itself was locked although some paintings could be seen. Farther up the valley the track reached the village of Vlachaba, built on a steep slope. There being no sign of a cafe I walked onto the crest of the ridge at the top of Vlachaba.
From then on it was down a valley through the woods towards Meteora, although missing a turn and blocked by a gate I had to climb back up, somewhat peeved, at one point. At another I had to throw stones to persuade a pack of manically barking dogs of assorted varieties not to come too close, the cows I suppose they were guarding were less concerned.
Finally I was approaching the famous monasteries of Meteora, built on, or into, great pillars of rock. I diverted off the main track to walk among them. The first I saw, the Holy Monastery of Ipapantis, was embedded in the side of the cliff. Visiting time finished at 14:00, about the time I reached it so I walked up a narrow path towards the Monastery of Grand Meteoran. As I rounded the hill a line of cars and coaches greeted me. It is always a shock after some days of walking in solitude to be suddenly among a crowd of people talking in many languages and taking numerous photos of themselves. I climbed up the steps of the monastery as people pushed back down towards me, oblivious to my rucksack and the extra room it needed. At the church at the top the room before the nave had lots of paintings of saints being killed in various ways (beheaded, boiled, crucified etc.). I entered the nave respectfully, conscious that with God's help, or the result of my careful preparation, I had finished my trip safely, blessed by good weather, and that I had a beautiful wife waiting at home for my return. However it was difficult to contemplate such thoughts with all my fellow tourists pushing past. Sometimes I feel invisible to people.
I picked a footpath below the monastery to head down to the town of Kastraki, its starting point easily missed due to lack of use. I immediately lost all the tourists who tend to travel by car or coach (if only because of the hefty climbs involved in reaching these monasteries). The footpath was crudely paved with small boulders and led me down to a road. Beyond that the path was somewhat overgrown but I reached Kastraki and the helpful lady in the Tourist Information office reserved a room for me at the Hotel Rex in nearby Kalampaka and booked a seat for me on the bus to Thessaloniki tomorrow.
Hotel Rex was 20 minutes down the road and the tavernas of Kalampaka awaited me for my diner.
A file of my route suitable for your GPS from Wikiloc.com, or can be viewed on your smartphone with ViewRanger, shortcode johnpon0039.
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| A valley enroute to Kalampaka |
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| The Palaiopanagia? |
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| Holy Monastery of Ipapantis |
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