Saturday, September 29, 2018

Thoughts on Mount Olympus to Meteora on E4

Mount Olympus and Meteora are world class sites attracting large volumes of tourists, however the section of the E4 Long Distance European trail between them appears to attract very few visits.
The grandeur of Mount Olympus with its rocky summits means fit people from many countries make the long climb (some 2600 metres from the favoured starting point of Litochoro although many seem to get transport up to Priona reducing the climb to a still substantial 1600 metres). It is an exhilarating and satisfying experience to reach the top, especially of the more difficult peak of Mytikas, and see a large piece of Greece spread out around you. You will have plenty of company on the summits yet coming down the west side of Mount Olympus to Kokkinopelos you could be the only visitor in the village.
Meteora, with its ancient monasteries built on distinctive pillars of rock to escape the distractions of the world are now overwhelmed by coach parties of tourists (or at least those parts near a car park). Most are rather less fit than those who climb Olympus but no less ready to photograph themselves with a stunning background.
In between the two sites a visitor will attract curiosity due to their rarity, although viewing the moon rising over Mount Olympus from the picturesque village of Livadi while enjoying an evening beer is a much richer experience than sitting among the coach parties in Litochoro or Kalampaka.
Despite the difficulties in knowing exactly where the E4 goes, especially after Descati, the walk from Olympus to Meteora was rather more interesting than I anticipated. While I expected farmland I had not realised quite how many hills, woodlands and mountains the route covered. Nor was I expecting villages to be halfway up the mountain side. The downside of no tourists was a lack of accommodation between Livadi and Meteora although with more effort some might be found, fortunately there were more places suitable for wild camping than I expected.
One of the pleasures of long distance walking is visiting places where you would not otherwise plan to go and your trip being enriched by what you find. For this reason missing out the bit between the two famous sites would be a loss to the experience of walking the E4.

The route I took can be downloaded as a gpx file for your GPS from Wikiloc.com or can be accessed with your smartphone using ViewRanger, shortcode johnpon0039. I did not include the route over Mount Olympus from Litochoro to Kokkinopelos, as this can readily be found on various maps and downloads.

Since completing this section my attention was kindly drawn to a German site with a GPS track of the same section of the E4. In places, most significantly between Livadero and Kalampaka, it takes alternative routes to mine, although not necessarily closer to the intended path of the E4 (whatever that is!). I have since bought the Anavasi map of Meteora, which shows that at least I arrived in the area on the "correct" route of the E4.

Sun rise over Mount Olympus viewed from Livadi

14 comments:

  1. Hello John! I am planning a long hike in Greece. Your website is a superb source of information, thanks! A missing piece of my puzzle is walking from Meteora to Metsovo. Do you happen to have any GPS track for the E4 going west from Metora? I can't find any on the web... Thanks in advance, and best regards!
    /Mats from Sweden (http://mats.karpaterna.se/contact-me/)

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    2. Your website shows some interesting trips. Albania looked better than its reputation as a bleak ex-communist state. I hope to walk the E1 in Scandinavia when I finish the E4, so I will hopefully go through some scenery similar to that in your blog.
      The E4 does not go from Meteora to Metsovo, instead it heads south from Meteora towards Karpenisi and then Delphi. For a GPS trail of the first section from Meteora see http://spazieren.de/GR/Nord/gr_no_wand_e4.htm. Another European trail, the E6, goes through Metsovo (but does not go to Meteora). You could of course create your own route from Meteora to Metsovo using the relevant Anavasi hiking maps or by buying the Garmin Greece topo map or similar. The Cicerone book "Trekking in Greece" also has some long hikes in Greece going via Metsovo that should not be too overgrown...a problem, with some of the E4.
      Enjoy your trip!

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    3. Hi John! Thanks for your reply!
      I found some info saying that the E4 continues south-west from Meteora to the village of Elati. And from Elati the O1 trail goes to Metsovo, so I will try that (https://oreivatein.com/oreivatein/page/e/res/e4.gif).

      Yes, Albania is much more than concrete. Full of nature and hospitality. Just like every Balkan country :)

      In my opinion, the E1 in Scandinavia bypasses much of the best scenery, but it will still be a fantastic experience. It would be easy to replace some parts of E1 with other established trails to make the hike even more spectacular. But you can of course return for those trails on a second trip :) I'm thinking about Sarek (Sweden), Jotunheimen (Norway) etc.

      If you are interested in the Balkans & Scandinavia, there are a lot more photos on my old website: www.karpaterna.se. If you need some information from a native when you plan your E1 hike, I'd be happy to help you out :)

      Good luck with your completion of E4, I look forward to read about it!

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    4. The 01 is planned to reach Elati from Metsovo, but so far only goes as far as Gardiki (Anavasi map and http://www.eooa.gr/?page_id=568). Could be an interesting route across the Avgo mountains from Elati to Gardiki....

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  3. Yes, Elati and Gardiki are quite close so it should work out. Thanks for the info!

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    1. I recently helped a couple of French trekkers do the traverse from Igoumenitsa to Litochoro, which includes the Metsovo - Kalambaka section (I have put a track in vision.iti.gr/trails/data/c2ctrek.kml). This is not E4 since E4 turns south after Elati. For the E4 down to the south there is also a recent account of another French trekker that crossed the Balkans.

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  4. https://caminaireinenglish.wordpress.com/balkans/central-greece/

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    1. Odiporos, thanks for the advice. Like others on the E4 section north of Delphi, the French trekker you refer to, sometimes follows the E4 (as marked on say Anavasi maps) and sometimes does not. I will probably choose my route based on local conditions as I find them, hopefully avoiding pushing through too many thorny bushes.

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    2. As a general advice. Anavasi maps just depict the original routing made on paper in the 80s. The trail was never properly implemented. Most problematic is the section from Kalambaka to Argithea. To the south it is more or less as in the map (mostly on dirt roads). Also unlike the northern part now you will walk in more wild territory e.g. food may be hard to find along the Agrafa range and only in the summer. You may write to me on malasiot at gmail dot com for some more advice. Sotiris

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    3. Caminare is really an excellent website! Very inspiring :)
      Thanks for sharing.

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  5. Dear John,
    I am Nikolas from Elati, Trikala.
    Today finish the E4 part from Elati to Diaselo (before Stournareika). We have clean and well mark all the way.
    Actually we cut the brances of the trees on the trail and we have and marks all the way and it is easy visible everywhere.
    I am planning to clean and mark E4 into our region of Trikala (~110Km)
    Regards
    Nikolas

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    1. Dear Nikolas,
      That's great news, it will make the E4 much easier to follow. Those hiking this beautiful area will appreciate your work.
      John

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