Sunday, September 9, 2018

Thoughts on Macedonian section of E4

I thought some comments might be useful on the section of E4 from the Bulgarian border to Florina, which is also part of the E6 European trail. On this section of the E4 the path crosses plains and lowlands with periodic climbs over mountain ranges.
When in the plains there is invariably a line of mountains just to the north of the path marking the border between Greece and Bulgaria or the F.Y.R. of Macedonia. There are two lakes of note, Kerkini and Doirani, and their birdlife and the eagles soaring above the track elsewhere made me wish for better bird identification skills.
Of the ranges of hills and mountains I crossed the Voras mountains were undoubtedly the most impressive, the highest by far and a hiking destination in their own right.
I found the villages an attractive part of the route. The little squares shaded by plane trees with chairs and tables from the adjacent tavernas and cafés spread beneath, greetings being exchanged between those siting down, maybe playing cards or backgammon, and their friends walking or driving past in cars or on mopeds or scooters (with no helmets). Such places made for pleasant refreshment stops during the day and eating places in the evening.
Early September was impressively hot, especially in the full sun, with temperatures in the low 30's, other times of the year would undoubtedly be more pleasant for walking (and in spring I suspect there would be more flowers and blossom). However, with plenty of water, a broad rimmed hat, sun tan lotion and insect repellent it was possible to walk the route and enjoy it. Starting out early, in the cool, just as the sun rose, certainly helped; a time of day I find particularly beautiful. Insects were a real nuisance at times as were dogs. Those in the villages mainly just barked at me, those belonging to goatherds could be more aggressive but were usually called off by the herdsman.
I did not meet any other walkers on the trail and I suspect it is not that popular. People found it surprising I was alone. I followed GPS tracks downloaded from Waymarked paths or Traildino.com which proved fine for navigation. I also had the 1:230000 Macedonia map by Anavasi which shows the E4 / E6. This was useful for gaining the bigger picture but not too helpful for finding your way. Oreivatein.com was the most useful Internet resource (in addition to booking.com for some, but by no means all of the available accommodation). There were more yellow diamond E4 and E6 signs than I expected, not nearly enough to navigate by but enough to reassure you that you were on an international trail.
Apart from two nights in the Voras mountains when I wild camped there are hotels or guesthouse's available for every other night on this stretch although to reach them a few long days were needed.



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